Filco tenkeyless custom ATmega32u4 controller
- zoidbergslo
- Location: Slovenia
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2
- Main mouse: Logitech G600
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Count me in. Almost missed this thing.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
The PCB files have been sent to pcbwing for final checking before they go into production. I usually try to pull off some stunt altering the gerber files. So there may be a few issues to work out before the design passes their DRC. I think they like the challenges I put them up to though...
- graboy
- Main keyboard: Filco Tenkeless w/blues
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Looking forward to see how it works out.bpiphany wrote:The PCB files have been sent to pcbwing for final checking before they go into production. I usually try to pull off some stunt altering the gerber files. So there may be a few issues to work out before the design passes their DRC. I think they like the challenges I put them up to though...
Is the price still at $20?
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Noppoo Choc Mini
- Main mouse: Steelseries Kai
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
If there's still space I would definitely like one as well.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I didn't quite mention it here, but I ordered plenty of extra PCBs. I will keep adding names to the interest list, working them off in order when I start having completed units to send off.
At the moment I've got 100 anti-static zip-lock bags to pick up at the post office. I thought that would be a nice touch =) I'm considering adding a magnetic (reed) switch to the controllers as well, to operate the hardware reset without need to open the case. (In case you would happen to load a corrupted firmware and not be able to do a software reset.) They are a bit expensive, but I think this is a better way than lowering the price to compensate for the lower parts cost at these higher numbers.
The circuit boards are definitely in production by now, there was only one minor thing that needed to be adjusted.
At the moment I've got 100 anti-static zip-lock bags to pick up at the post office. I thought that would be a nice touch =) I'm considering adding a magnetic (reed) switch to the controllers as well, to operate the hardware reset without need to open the case. (In case you would happen to load a corrupted firmware and not be able to do a software reset.) They are a bit expensive, but I think this is a better way than lowering the price to compensate for the lower parts cost at these higher numbers.
The circuit boards are definitely in production by now, there was only one minor thing that needed to be adjusted.
- Daemon Raccoon
- Location: Flyover Country, United States
- Main keyboard: Model M SSK 1391472
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC LTrac
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
How did I miss this when it first came up?
I'd be down for one, it might make me actually consider using my Filco.
I'd be down for one, it might make me actually consider using my Filco.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm pretty sure all the different tenkeyless models use the same main PCB. There are switch locations for the Japanese layout as well.
The picture I haven't posted here on DT yet.. My brand new test board is an ISO one =)
The picture I haven't posted here on DT yet.. My brand new test board is an ISO one =)
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Boards came in today =D I put one together, discovered I had botched up the firmware I had up and running on the prototype, spent all afternoon re-writing the firmware... But now at last it's all in working condition. I'm typing this post at the first finished controller!
Controller porn There will be enough for everyone, more than 100 PCBs, and those are 15000 resistors, 4000 capacitors, and some other goodies. There seem to be a bit of a drought on ATmega32u4s at the moment though. But they should be coming back in stock in a month or so. I've got 50 to work with for now. Some of them I will need to re-program to run at 16 MHz instead of the 8 MHz they are pre-programmed to run.
Controller porn There will be enough for everyone, more than 100 PCBs, and those are 15000 resistors, 4000 capacitors, and some other goodies. There seem to be a bit of a drought on ATmega32u4s at the moment though. But they should be coming back in stock in a month or so. I've got 50 to work with for now. Some of them I will need to re-program to run at 16 MHz instead of the 8 MHz they are pre-programmed to run.
- Daemon Raccoon
- Location: Flyover Country, United States
- Main keyboard: Model M SSK 1391472
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC LTrac
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Yay! Oh wait, this means I have to find the money to pay for mine.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
For me ;)litster wrote:Awesome! What is the ISP6 for?
Nah, you never know when it's going to come in handy... I will use it to change the fuses on the second batch of controllers I got. They are pre-programmed to run on the internal 8 MHz clock source. But it is simple enough to change that via ISP.
Changing the bootloader requires an external programmer as well. I will need to change it on the ones I change clock source on. It will not run at the changed speed. So they will have to do with the LUFA bootloader. I think I will leave the Atmel one on the other ones though.
Edit: Also the reset pad is one of the ISP pads. I didn't add any other. The pad next to it is GND so it is easy enough to just short them out. I probably should have added instructions on the silkscreen =P I managed to do the silkscreen in reverse on the only electrolyte capacitor as well... They blow up if mounted the wrong way. Other than that it's only the larger chips that need to be mounted in a correct orientation.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Updates:
I have promised free shipping for the ones bold enough to try to solder their own controller. Also to pop them up to the front of the line, since that is more or less only repacking stuff.
I had an issue trying to re-program some controllers that seem to have been sorted out now. The suppliers I usually order from are out of the regular ATmega32u4, but there is another chip that is factory set to use the internal 8MHz oscillator. This can be changed with a serial programmer, and I think I got that to work now. So all should be dandy to resume production.
I still need to get header pins and reed switches. I already have units only missing those. They are very quick to add though. And shipping time from DigiKey is usually ~2 days.
I'm hoping to get a video online to show how the soldering is done, but that is probably at least a couple of days away. Meanwhile I uploaded a scan of some components on GH to give an idea of what their sizes are http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=350 ... #msg679916
I have promised free shipping for the ones bold enough to try to solder their own controller. Also to pop them up to the front of the line, since that is more or less only repacking stuff.
I had an issue trying to re-program some controllers that seem to have been sorted out now. The suppliers I usually order from are out of the regular ATmega32u4, but there is another chip that is factory set to use the internal 8MHz oscillator. This can be changed with a serial programmer, and I think I got that to work now. So all should be dandy to resume production.
I still need to get header pins and reed switches. I already have units only missing those. They are very quick to add though. And shipping time from DigiKey is usually ~2 days.
I'm hoping to get a video online to show how the soldering is done, but that is probably at least a couple of days away. Meanwhile I uploaded a scan of some components on GH to give an idea of what their sizes are http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=350 ... #msg679916
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm very glad I decided against trying to do the soldering myself, considering the mess I made of the diodes on my Phantom .
How does the firmware loading work with these, is there a teensy bootloader equivilant?
How does the firmware loading work with these, is there a teensy bootloader equivilant?
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Sort of, for competent people ;) running Linux there is a command line tool called dfu-programmer that does the trick. On windows Atmel's own GUI tool FLIP is usable once you've managed to install it...HzFaq wrote:I'm very glad I decided against trying to do the soldering myself, considering the mess I made of the diodes on my Phantom :D.
How does the firmware loading work with these, is there a teensy bootloader equivilant?
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I've got a pile of 40 or so completed controllers by now. I'll probably start contacting people through pm tomorrow to ask for money.
Some videos meanwhile, mostly of interest to those of you keen on soldering yourselves. Remember it is itsy bitsy teensy, but free shipping if you order at least one DIY kit =) And you will be included in the first round of shipping! Speak up, or wait in line for a PM request.
I didn't have any more upload quota this week, but I've got more material. One short clip on soldering the crystal, and some longer videos soldering a complete unit.
0603 https://vimeo.com/51306700
TQFP44 https://vimeo.com/51312926
Sticker https://vimeo.com/51319950
Some videos meanwhile, mostly of interest to those of you keen on soldering yourselves. Remember it is itsy bitsy teensy, but free shipping if you order at least one DIY kit =) And you will be included in the first round of shipping! Speak up, or wait in line for a PM request.
I didn't have any more upload quota this week, but I've got more material. One short clip on soldering the crystal, and some longer videos soldering a complete unit.
0603 https://vimeo.com/51306700
TQFP44 https://vimeo.com/51312926
Sticker https://vimeo.com/51319950
- Daemon Raccoon
- Location: Flyover Country, United States
- Main keyboard: Model M SSK 1391472
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC LTrac
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Wheeeeeeeeeee, paid! Enjoy the beer. Already got my Pink Filco apart with a guitar pick and an old credit card.
- zoidbergslo
- Location: Slovenia
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2
- Main mouse: Logitech G600
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Will controllers come preloaded with simple US layout or will there be just bootloader on them.
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I've built the firmware based on the ISO board I have, but I think the ANSI one should be exactly the same (minus the extra key right of left shift). The Filcos all use the same controller, programmed the same way, or at least I'm pretty confident that is the case. Even the Japanese versions. The extra Japanese keys are not included in the firmware at the moment. They are not hard to add, but I need to know where =)zoidbergslo wrote:Will controllers come preloaded with simple US layout or will there be just bootloader on them.