Desolder problem: Omron switches
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
whenever i try to desolder a Omron or a other mouse button switch, they overheat and become useless.
(Cherry Switches or other items, never got damaged...)
I need an advice for the desolder temperature of Omron and mousebutton switches.
Also i need an advice for a (not so expensive) solder station in europe( ebay.de / ebay.co.uk).
I only have ERSA SL 870 without any temp control and this
Spec: Heating power: 150W attire. 60W warm-up time: 20 Weight: 110 g Voltage: 220 VAC
Thank you
(Cherry Switches or other items, never got damaged...)
I need an advice for the desolder temperature of Omron and mousebutton switches.
Also i need an advice for a (not so expensive) solder station in europe( ebay.de / ebay.co.uk).
I only have ERSA SL 870 without any temp control and this
Spec: Heating power: 150W attire. 60W warm-up time: 20 Weight: 110 g Voltage: 220 VAC
Thank you
- Input Nirvana
- Location: San Francisco bay area, California, USA
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage
- Main mouse: Rollermouse Free2
- DT Pro Member: -
Have you tried hotter/faster?
Are you using wick or a solder sucker?
Are you using wick or a solder sucker?
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: HHKB BT
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Farnell sells a relatively inexpensive desoldering station.
http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/d ... dp/1498361
It might be a better option to just order new switches instead of salvaging them if you're doing small quantities. They're not particularly expensive, even if you get the Japanese made ones.
http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/d ... dp/1498361
It might be a better option to just order new switches instead of salvaging them if you're doing small quantities. They're not particularly expensive, even if you get the Japanese made ones.
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
i use a solder sucker.
yes, i should buy some stuff:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/400280967807?ssP ... 449wt_1139
Maybe this one....
yes, i should buy some stuff:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/400280967807?ssP ... 449wt_1139
Maybe this one....
- Acanthophis
- Location: Germany
- DT Pro Member: -
Sorry for the hijack.
I also have desoldering problems with MX Switches on a Poker. I use this soldering iron + pump.
Is it too weak? The solder seems to get cold too fast, no matter how fast I try to suck it up after heating. Will a proper solder station fix my issues? Do switches or the PCB get damaged from too much heat?
I also have desoldering problems with MX Switches on a Poker. I use this soldering iron + pump.
Is it too weak? The solder seems to get cold too fast, no matter how fast I try to suck it up after heating. Will a proper solder station fix my issues? Do switches or the PCB get damaged from too much heat?
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
Well, that soldering iron ist scheisse but I have used similar ones. Do you apply the pump while still heating with the iron? Even though the tip of the pump is made of plastic they can stand short bursts of heat. I assume you have watched some youtube videos? Can you describe your problems in greater detail?
It also sometimes helps to ADD solder because of the flux in it, I assume.
It also sometimes helps to ADD solder because of the flux in it, I assume.
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
@Icarium
Have you got any recommendation for a soldering iron? Thx
Have you got any recommendation for a soldering iron? Thx
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
This one is great: https://secure.reichelt.de/ERSA-Loetsta ... 5dc47e9f11
If you want to make your own informed decision I recommend this: http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/L%C3%B6tkolben
EDIT:
This one is supposed to be good for beginners (good in the sense of decent for the price, I assume): http://www.ersa-shop.de/ERSA/05-Handloe ... 260BD.html
If you want to make your own informed decision I recommend this: http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/L%C3%B6tkolben
EDIT:
This one is supposed to be good for beginners (good in the sense of decent for the price, I assume): http://www.ersa-shop.de/ERSA/05-Handloe ... 260BD.html
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
and the size of the tip? For the Tip260 the smallest is 1,1mm.
Fore RDS 80 is the smallest 0,4mm. To much things for me....
Fore RDS 80 is the smallest 0,4mm. To much things for me....
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
The 1.1 mm is fine. Could even be bigger. You only need the really small ones if you want to solder really small parts. Bigger tips are actually better in many cases because the heat can be transfered better.
Edit: If you go with a rather cheap iron make sure to get lead based solder. The lead free stuff is harder to use and needs higher temperatures.
Edit: If you go with a rather cheap iron make sure to get lead based solder. The lead free stuff is harder to use and needs higher temperatures.
-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: REALFORCE R2
- Main mouse: Vaxee Outset / CST L-TracX
- Favorite switch: MX Brown / Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0039
If it's lead free solder you might need high temperature 350~370 and probably higher wattage. Maybe you can try adding some more solder to the joint before desoldering.DeathAdder wrote:Sorry for the hijack.
I also have desoldering problems with MX Switches on a Poker. I use this soldering iron + pump.
Is it too weak? The solder seems to get cold too fast, no matter how fast I try to suck it up after heating. Will a proper solder station fix my issues? Do switches or the PCB get damaged from too much heat?
Just like Icarium said. Also sometimes you can find good deals on ebay, look for weller/jbc/hakko/ersa stations.
-
- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I've heard claims these combined iron/suckers are really handy. I haven't tried one myself, and I don't know anything about their quality, but they can be found very cheap on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-SOL ... 0477503631
Found a video as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv4uFaX3UbI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-SOL ... 0477503631
Found a video as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv4uFaX3UbI
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
I just use one of my kester 186 bottles and apply a generous amount to the omron pins. I then use my weller WESD51 and (I can't remember which tip) with one of my techspray prowick desoldering braids (I don't remember the size for omron pins). The omron comes right out, and then I replace it with a salvaged microswitch from a G80-8113. That's what I did for my Razer Imperator 4G anyway.