Unfortunately I still haven't been able to identify this keyboard manufacturer so I can't program it. I'm waiting to get my hands on another DIN input keyboard to maybe try my luck with the additional input on the keyboard itself to use it for programming. I've read that thats how some older TIPRO keyboards can be programmed, you basically hold the key you wish to program and then, on the other connected keyboard, you press the combination you want.
Anyway, I've contacted TIPRO, and a Ukranian keyboard manufacturer called POSUA and they both said it's not their model. If anyone could have more information, please help!
I would do a typing video but it doesn't makes sense without the keyboard working properly, now when I connect it it shows random numbers when I press different keys, probably the way the previous owner had it programmed as a cash register.
Retrobrighting was good, I kept it for 48 hours or so and it wouldn's hurt if I did it for a bit more but I didn't want to overdo it since it was my first retrobright project ever!
Here are the pictures:
Spoiler:
This is how I got it, very dirty and badly yellowed.
The switches were so full of dust and dirt it was a pain to clean it since it all got stuck to the plate.
The back was really dirty as well.
After I took it apart, the inside was in OK state. The PCB with the chips was detached from the bottom case so it had to be reatached later. Other than that, the cleaning of the inside was not a big fuss.
This is the switchplate and the switches after cleaning. I didn't want to desolder and clean the switches from the inside since I think they work fine, I don't feel any scratching when typing.
This is the retrobrighting process. I built this station as seen on some yt videos and it works really well. I used salon hydrogene cream and plastic wrap, and of course UV blacklight. If anyone is interested in the details I would be glad to share more.
The result of retrobright. I think it worked really well!
Reassembly after cleaning! The best part of every process.
The assembled keyboard without the caps and my fiancee's hand, she is probably wondering why I do so much work for a keyboard I can't even use properly.
Another picture of assembled keyboard without the caps.
And finally with the caps on and my layout as I imagined it to be. The only thing left is to try to somehow program this, I hope I will be sucessfull since I've put a lot of work on the restoration and I think it is not complete until the keyboard can be used properly. It is so funny to type on since tke keys are all linear and everything is square, but I think I could get used to it.
Great job bring this back to life! Hopefully you can use a converter and get some more functionality out of this POS terminal board.
I've bought DIN to ps/2 and ps/2 to usb converters, all seems to be working fine. The trouble is the software I need to program it.
You might want to pickup a teensy clone and then program it with a converter of your choice. Soarer's converter is a good starting ground but the project is no longer supported so there won't be any further updates.
The switches were so full of dust and dirt it was a pain to clean it since it all got stuck to the plate.
This is the switchplate and the switches after cleaning. I didn't want to desolder and clean the switches from the inside since I think they work fine, I don't feel any scratching when typing.
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Wow, what a satisfying "before and after" set. Great job cleaning this dirty thing!
It looks like the PCB with the switches is just passing along the signals to the controller board. The board is 8x16, and I see a total of 24 wires coming from the PCB, in groups of 8, with 16 having diodes nearby. Which suggests that it may be a straightforward matrix. If it's so, you could use one of the controller firmwares with a Teensy with enough pins, and replace the existing controller. You'd just have to solder a few wires.
You could test this very easily with a multimeter or other sort of continuity tester (even just an LED and small battery). I'm reasonably confident that you'd confirm my prediction.
So, this is most likely an option if you can't program it, and may be worthwhile even if you can.
Hi jeb. Thanks for the suggestion. The problem is I don't have a solder (and I have never soldered), and don't have multimeter or something like that.
I plan to buy all this stuff in the future and learn how to use it so your comment will be very useful.
Funny thing about this keyboard is that it make sounds when clicking, like it has a small speaker inside
Waaaaaaa. Finally!! Thanks, I will contact them again maybe they have the older software. Initially they said it is not their model, I will set them straight
I have a similar keyboard as yours.
Mine was in a better state (bought in a second hand store).
It's labeled as GIGATEK KB128A (maybe rebranded from Protech) and it came with blues. Also seems to have a different type of electronics, i see 1 P87C511 microcontroller (maybe programable), a 93c66 eprom and some HD74LS138P Demultiplexers.
My first idea was to get an Arduino translate the keycode or keycode combinations into some other data, such as midi. But in Arduino i did not receive something for all the keys, so i supposed that something was broken, but maybe it is due some programming that Arduino is unable to read...
Did you get something from Protech after contacting them? Any change to get this configured without to rebuild the entire electronics?
Retrobrighting was good, I kept it for 48 hours or so and it wouldn's hurt if I did it for a bit more but I didn't want to overdo it since it was my first retrobright project ever!
i would love to know more about the system you use
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