Using a Model M spacebar on Model F AT/122
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Model F
- Main mouse: MX Ergo
Does anyone have any advice on using a model M spacebar on an F (non xt)? I emailed Joe at ModelF keyboards and he suggested this adapter but didn't have advice on installation. I was directed to ask here. I would like to be able to hotswap model M spacebars since we can't really buy replacement F ones.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
The easiest way is to slip 2 washers over the "V" and ",<" barrels. Wcass discovered that 7/16" SAE washers work quite well.
Their weight is just right, and although they may interfere with the bottom millimeter of key travel, it is hardly noticeable.
I don't know what the metric equivalent would be, or if there is one, but I tried other washers such as rubber, fiber, etc, but none worked properly.
Their weight is just right, and although they may interfere with the bottom millimeter of key travel, it is hardly noticeable.
I don't know what the metric equivalent would be, or if there is one, but I tried other washers such as rubber, fiber, etc, but none worked properly.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Model F
- Main mouse: MX Ergo
Huh? Do you know if there's any pics of this?fohat wrote: 30 Jun 2021, 22:46 The easiest way is to slip 2 washers over the "V" and ",<" barrels. Wcass discovered that 7/16" SAE washers work quite well.
Their weight is just right, and although they may interfere with the bottom millimeter of key travel, it is hardly noticeable.
I don't know what the metric equivalent would be, or if there is one, but I tried other washers such as rubber, fiber, etc, but none worked properly.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
The ones that I did are in deep storage. There is really nothing to it. Drop the washer over the barrel and slip the wire under it.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
- E TwentyNine
- Main keyboard: AT Model F w/ Tenkeyless mod
- Main mouse: Logitech M310
- Favorite switch: Beam spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I had tried it with both metal and nylon washers. The metal was too clangy and the nylon was just ok.fohat wrote: 30 Jun 2021, 22:46 The easiest way is to slip 2 washers over the "V" and ",<" barrels. Wcass discovered that 7/16" SAE washers work quite well.
Their weight is just right, and although they may interfere with the bottom millimeter of key travel, it is hardly noticeable.
I don't know what the metric equivalent would be, or if there is one, but I tried other washers such as rubber, fiber, etc, but none worked properly.
Ended up epoxying down two of the wire catches from another spot on the board. If you don't have the spares you could make something similar I would guess. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52379
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I have done this several times. Epoxy the tabs to bare metal, otherwise the paint layer might separate.
The tabs were bent strips of sheet metal. Cuts from food tins are a bit flexible but work well enough.
The tabs were bent strips of sheet metal. Cuts from food tins are a bit flexible but work well enough.
- Attachments
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- IBM-F-spacebar-tabs.jpg (191.4 KiB) Viewed 1931 times
- Sheepless
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: IBM buckling spring
I used 0.2mm steel tinplate, bent into a U shape and epoxied down. No problems since, though it'll be a pain to remove if that's ever needed.fohat wrote: 01 Jul 2021, 15:36 I have done this several times. Epoxy the tabs to bare metal, otherwise the paint layer might separate.
The tabs were bent strips of sheet metal. Cuts from food tins are a bit flexible but work well enough.