The only thing missing now was a proper case. I've never been a fan of the "caseless" floating designs, but had to accept it, because there is not really an alternative with that key layout.
After seeing photos of the Apple M0110A keyboard and doing some guessing, I tought the opening might be just the right size for the ViBE and I got one on eBay.
The gaps on the top and bottom are perfect. On the sides it's a very tight fit. To prevent the keycaps in the corners hitting the case you could:
- make the rounded corners of the case square
- modify the corner keycaps
- What I did was, that I just used a round file from below and widened the corners in a slanted way - invisible from the top (hard to describe; I should have made a photo
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Removing the separator was a bit "intimidating", but with a saw, file and sandpaper (150, 400, 2000) it turned out perfectly. (after retro-brighting practically invisible)
After removal of the separator, but before retro-brighting: Then you need a nearly 3 mm thick piece of board (the top side was originally white, so I put matt black film onto it to prevent any white stuff peeking out from underneath later): - 6 small holes for the case screws
- a cut-out for the cable on the top
- 2 bigger holes in the upper half, where the case of the ViBE gets fixed - using the screw holes for the feet. I had to take/make longer screws than the originals that are used for the feet, though. (These holes should be bigger than the diameter of the screws, so you can adjust the position of the keyboard later. That also means you need washers on the underside, which again increases the needed length of the screws.)
- the biggest holes towards the bottom are not really necessary - for some reason I only didn't want to take the lower rubber feet of the ViBE - so they end up in those holes.
USB extension cable fixed with some rubber at the cases exit. Angled micro usb adapter and a few sheets of rubber-cork (of which I bought far too much - for making replacement feet for Model F XTs) to reduce the hollowness: Assembled - apart from the top case. (In the end I added very thin metal washers to the holes for the case screws, because my board was a tiny bit too thin, which put a bit of stress onto the case, when I tightened the screws. Especially noticeable in the middle of the horizontal gaps, where the case then bends towards the keys. )
Result:
(The marbled look comes from my first retro-bright attempt using the original 8-bit-guy method. But in the end I liked it so much, that I didn't try to "fix" it.)
And my favourite beauty shot (again):