Finally a proper case for the Vortex ViBE
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
The layout of the Vortex ViBE is pretty much perfect for me. After starting with a MX brown version, I changed to silent reds and in the end I took the first board and replaced the MX browns with lubed Healios.
The only thing missing now was a proper case. I've never been a fan of the "caseless" floating designs, but had to accept it, because there is not really an alternative with that key layout.
After seeing photos of the Apple M0110A keyboard and doing some guessing, I tought the opening might be just the right size for the ViBE and I got one on eBay.
The gaps on the top and bottom are perfect. On the sides it's a very tight fit. To prevent the keycaps in the corners hitting the case you could:
- make the rounded corners of the case square
- modify the corner keycaps
- What I did was, that I just used a round file from below and widened the corners in a slanted way - invisible from the top (hard to describe; I should have made a photo )
Removing the separator was a bit "intimidating", but with a saw, file and sandpaper (150, 400, 2000) it turned out perfectly. (after retro-brighting practically invisible)
After removal of the separator, but before retro-brighting: Then you need a nearly 3 mm thick piece of board (the top side was originally white, so I put matt black film onto it to prevent any white stuff peeking out from underneath later): - 6 small holes for the case screws
- a cut-out for the cable on the top
- 2 bigger holes in the upper half, where the case of the ViBE gets fixed - using the screw holes for the feet. I had to take/make longer screws than the originals that are used for the feet, though. (These holes should be bigger than the diameter of the screws, so you can adjust the position of the keyboard later. That also means you need washers on the underside, which again increases the needed length of the screws.)
- the biggest holes towards the bottom are not really necessary - for some reason I only didn't want to take the lower rubber feet of the ViBE - so they end up in those holes.
USB extension cable fixed with some rubber at the cases exit. Angled micro usb adapter and a few sheets of rubber-cork (of which I bought far too much - for making replacement feet for Model F XTs) to reduce the hollowness: Assembled - apart from the top case. (In the end I added very thin metal washers to the holes for the case screws, because my board was a tiny bit too thin, which put a bit of stress onto the case, when I tightened the screws. Especially noticeable in the middle of the horizontal gaps, where the case then bends towards the keys. )
Result:
(The marbled look comes from my first retro-bright attempt using the original 8-bit-guy method. But in the end I liked it so much, that I didn't try to "fix" it.)
And my favourite beauty shot (again):
The only thing missing now was a proper case. I've never been a fan of the "caseless" floating designs, but had to accept it, because there is not really an alternative with that key layout.
After seeing photos of the Apple M0110A keyboard and doing some guessing, I tought the opening might be just the right size for the ViBE and I got one on eBay.
The gaps on the top and bottom are perfect. On the sides it's a very tight fit. To prevent the keycaps in the corners hitting the case you could:
- make the rounded corners of the case square
- modify the corner keycaps
- What I did was, that I just used a round file from below and widened the corners in a slanted way - invisible from the top (hard to describe; I should have made a photo )
Removing the separator was a bit "intimidating", but with a saw, file and sandpaper (150, 400, 2000) it turned out perfectly. (after retro-brighting practically invisible)
After removal of the separator, but before retro-brighting: Then you need a nearly 3 mm thick piece of board (the top side was originally white, so I put matt black film onto it to prevent any white stuff peeking out from underneath later): - 6 small holes for the case screws
- a cut-out for the cable on the top
- 2 bigger holes in the upper half, where the case of the ViBE gets fixed - using the screw holes for the feet. I had to take/make longer screws than the originals that are used for the feet, though. (These holes should be bigger than the diameter of the screws, so you can adjust the position of the keyboard later. That also means you need washers on the underside, which again increases the needed length of the screws.)
- the biggest holes towards the bottom are not really necessary - for some reason I only didn't want to take the lower rubber feet of the ViBE - so they end up in those holes.
USB extension cable fixed with some rubber at the cases exit. Angled micro usb adapter and a few sheets of rubber-cork (of which I bought far too much - for making replacement feet for Model F XTs) to reduce the hollowness: Assembled - apart from the top case. (In the end I added very thin metal washers to the holes for the case screws, because my board was a tiny bit too thin, which put a bit of stress onto the case, when I tightened the screws. Especially noticeable in the middle of the horizontal gaps, where the case then bends towards the keys. )
Result:
(The marbled look comes from my first retro-bright attempt using the original 8-bit-guy method. But in the end I liked it so much, that I didn't try to "fix" it.)
And my favourite beauty shot (again):
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Dude, that's the most beautyful keyboard I have ever seen. For some reason both yellowing and marbling look so good on the M110's. I have one in his original state and I love it, but because of the layout rarely goes out of the plastic bag.
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
Excellent work! How about a typing demo video, so we see how it handles under usage? (and how do healios sound inside that case, too)
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
Thanks a lot.
Concerning typing demo: I tried that already, but - just as with den Model F XT videos, I did some time ago - it sounds very, very reverberating. No matter, if I use my photo-camera or an iPhone. That doesn't do it justice.
(Maybe I'll try a different setup ....)
Concerning typing demo: I tried that already, but - just as with den Model F XT videos, I did some time ago - it sounds very, very reverberating. No matter, if I use my photo-camera or an iPhone. That doesn't do it justice.
(Maybe I'll try a different setup ....)
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
New try in terms of video production - with camera (=microphone) directly above the keyboard:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bo9Qo4mw4DE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bo9Qo4mw4DE
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
That is really cool. Except I think the marbled look just looks like smudges on the case, but to each their own.
Stuff like this makes me glad I kept a lot of the vintage cases I had from desoldering projects.
Stuff like this makes me glad I kept a lot of the vintage cases I had from desoldering projects.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
It's always gratifying to see a fortuitous repurposing of vintage parts. Nice work.
- ideus
- Location: Fun but dangerous: Based in Mexico now.
- Main keyboard: GON60
- Main mouse: Logitech
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clears.
- DT Pro Member: 0200
That was a very nice idea. It's sound is awesome. On marbling I would really like to see the case properly retro brightened instead, but for each one its own taste.
- DeChief
- Location: Sydney, Australia
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK (JIS ISO)
- Favorite switch: ALPS Buckling Spring (Sega TeraDrive)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Beautiful... but a huge shame. Mac 128k/512k/Plus keyboards are expensive enough as it is, I'd rather not be paying $300 for one of them in a few year's time when everybody has cannibalized their cases
I tried using the developer creme twice, and both times it marbled even when using plastic wrap and keeping it moist. I'd never recommend it. Just leaving the case out in the sun will brighten it, but it can take several days of exposure. It also avoids making the plastics more brittle. Otherwise, just submerging it in hydrogen peroxide (even deluded) and leaving in the sun or under UV will make for a very quick and even brightening.
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
In case there are some, who are not already fed up with my ViBE pictures .....
Because I'm very happy with my ViBE in a M0110A case, I wanted to treat my work keyboard in the same way and recently acquired a second M0110A keyboard.
As I said, I had grown very fond of my accidental marble effect, that happened during my first retro-brighting attempt and wanted to recreate it this time as well. So I again used the gel-under-clear-plastic-foil-technique and this time paid less attention to massaging the case parts regularly during their sun-bath, with the intention to boost the marble effect.
But compared to last time, when I did this at the hight of summer, this time it's winter with a low standing sun, low temperatures and a lot of clouds. So the parts were out for both afternoons last weekend and I even was worried, if that would be enough to revert the yellowing in certain places.
And guess what ...... It turned out 100 percent even with no marbling effect whatsoever!
So the slightly wild home keyboard now has a more conservative brother:
Because I'm very happy with my ViBE in a M0110A case, I wanted to treat my work keyboard in the same way and recently acquired a second M0110A keyboard.
As I said, I had grown very fond of my accidental marble effect, that happened during my first retro-brighting attempt and wanted to recreate it this time as well. So I again used the gel-under-clear-plastic-foil-technique and this time paid less attention to massaging the case parts regularly during their sun-bath, with the intention to boost the marble effect.
But compared to last time, when I did this at the hight of summer, this time it's winter with a low standing sun, low temperatures and a lot of clouds. So the parts were out for both afternoons last weekend and I even was worried, if that would be enough to revert the yellowing in certain places.
And guess what ...... It turned out 100 percent even with no marbling effect whatsoever!
So the slightly wild home keyboard now has a more conservative brother:
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I really like the second one, good job on the retro brite
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Aye. That one's a real beaut. The colours and the case turned out just perfect! Very tempted to make a DT banner from it…
Here's some attempts for your potential approval.
Here's some attempts for your potential approval.
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
Thanks. It's always an honour if one's pictures are used as banner, of course.
In case of the double picture - maybe the cable on only one of the keyboards is a bit disturbing? Maybe this would be better?
In case of the double picture - maybe the cable on only one of the keyboards is a bit disturbing? Maybe this would be better?
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
On the beige one, yes. The too boldly printed legends (from round 1) would stand out too much in these positions.
As you can see in the last pictures of the board with the Triumph mods - by now I've found one international kit with decently printed legends, where I can also use the correct Y and Z caps.
-
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Vortex Tab 90m
- Main mouse: Razer Naga (shite)
- Favorite switch: MX clears (haven't tried many)
- Contact:
-
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Vortex Tab 90m
- Main mouse: Razer Naga (shite)
- Favorite switch: MX clears (haven't tried many)
- Contact: