IBM Model F third layer

[Bjerrk]

And finally, how do I flash it onto the converter (no pins to short, no reset button).

Solved

Cool! Would be nice to describe the solution, for when someone inevitably stumbles upon the thread

[wim_board]

Will do. I _might_ have spoken a little early there. Haven't really solved it after all. Missing dependencies. Will keep working.

[an_achronism]

Will do. I _might_ have spoken a little early there. Haven't really solved it after all. Missing dependencies. Will keep working.

When you said there were "no pins to short, no reset button"... what converter hardware is this? There presumably has to be one or the other somewhere, you might need to open the keyboard if it's been converted internally.

[wim_board]

When you said there were "no pins to short, no reset button"... what converter hardware is this? There presumably has to be one or the other somewhere, you might need to open the keyboard if it's been converted internally.

See picture earlier in string. Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302711725609?h ... SwDN1USZL-

But no problem, it can somehow be reprogrammed anyway, using software bundled in the zip-file with documentation and firmware.

[an_achronism]

When you said there were "no pins to short, no reset button"... what converter hardware is this? There presumably has to be one or the other somewhere, you might need to open the keyboard if it's been converted internally.

See picture earlier in string. Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302711725609?h ... SwDN1USZL-

But no problem, it can somehow be reprogrammed anyway, using software bundled in the zip-file with documentation and firmware.

I have one of Orihalcon's en route to me but I don't know if it can be reflashed without pulling it apart. I hope so, but possibly not... if need be, I might just make a really janky one that I can put TMK or QMK on, but it'd be good to reflash the nicer-built one.

[wim_board]

I mean, it's always possible to map a key combination to reset the converter. Makes things easier, until it doesn't and you still have to pull stuff apart.

[hellothere]

I'm not a big fan of the janky look either and don't have the time to invest in learning 3D modeling so here's the solution I've arrived at for my Pro Micro based converters. I use a simple project box and cut holes in it using the drill or snip method and then hot glue things down inside. Pro Micros get glued to the lid, the rest of the parts get glued to the base. I find them less janky than a bare solution or than the heat shrink editions out there, but not nearly as clean as what Orihalcon does or some of the custom 3D printed things others have done.

BOM:
Project Box
Optional magnetic cable to protect the Pro Micro's delicate socket - extra tips available separately
Pro Micro
Some flavor of breakout-style connector for what I need:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814LTB6L/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HGS5G8N/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083925STQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HM6UBN0/

Here are some finished products:
IMG_0638 copy.jpgIMG_0636 copy.jpg

I really like this and I've bookmarked it.

[raoulduke-esq]

Glad that helps, friend! It's not every day we get a chance to go cheap and easy.

[Wazrach]

Bit late I know, but the TMK thing really helped me. I just flashed my Pro Micro with a custom TMK keymap so that my Bigfoot has a more convenient layout. I now have all the keys I need.