Best vintage keyboard without spending life's savings?
- jadontalis
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: POS Razer Ornata v3
- Main mouse: Razer Basilisk Hyperspeed
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Switches
Hey everyone! I'm new here and have become obsessed with vintage keyboards over the last few weeks. I really want to switch my daily driver to a vintage mechanical keyboard. If I could give a kidney I'd buy a Model F Labs Beam Spring B104 or BSSK board or any of his model Fs with solenoid but it's just out of the cards at this stage in my life. I saw on Ebay recently a Zenith Z-150 with Green Alps for $100 so something in the land of those old linears or clicky that I can use everyday to code and grind papers out of. Anything with a pen holder is also a plus
. Thanks in advance, cheers!
-
Johnbo
- Location: United States - San Diego
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
I think the obvious answer you'll get from most people is a basic Model M. It's the quintessential "vintage keyboard". It's plenty easy to score them off eBay for a hundred bucks, or even less if you're patient and check frequently for deals. Or for a little bit more you can buy a brand new Model M from Unicomp. Either way, I think a Model M is the perfect intro keyboard to the hobby.
-
heinz
- Location: Estonia
- Main keyboard: IBM model M 1988
- Main mouse: Razer Diamondback 1
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
With the Model M you have to take account the fact that the actuation force might not be the thing for everybody. Also if you get one used you might need to bolt mod it yourself and that's what I did and I am happy with mine now.
If you want it cheaper you might also want to check out good rubber dome keyboards like some of the KeyTronic, especially the Ergoforce variety I have heard is good. I know, the "rubber dome" can put you off but I also used word "good".
In my experience I can't recommend the buckling spring clones. I had one that's make and model I don't recall and it was horrible.
If you want it cheaper you might also want to check out good rubber dome keyboards like some of the KeyTronic, especially the Ergoforce variety I have heard is good. I know, the "rubber dome" can put you off but I also used word "good".
In my experience I can't recommend the buckling spring clones. I had one that's make and model I don't recall and it was horrible.
-
Findecanor
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
For Key Tronic, only the Ergoforce is worth pursuing IMHO. Many non-ErgoForce are very mushy.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Best vintage keyboard? I would opt for a Cherry keyboard with a model number starting with G80
You'll never have to fix anything yourself.
You'll never have to fix anything yourself.
-
Findecanor
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Used vintage keyboards haven't really been cheap for years now, since the mechanical keyboard revival. The G80 series aren't that special: they just used to be cheap before that, so many used to buy them from parts.
But you might get lucky, and find a seller who hasn't checked eBay prices.
BTW. Beware also of really old G80 keyboards with PCBs made of phenolic resin. I had one that went bad, and had to throw the PCB out.
But you might get lucky, and find a seller who hasn't checked eBay prices.
BTW. Beware also of really old G80 keyboards with PCBs made of phenolic resin. I had one that went bad, and had to throw the PCB out.
- jadontalis
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: POS Razer Ornata v3
- Main mouse: Razer Basilisk Hyperspeed
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Switches
Appreciate the suggestions! I have stayed away from the model Ms as they seem very mushy for my liking, but if I can get a good deal on one then it's a done deal since they are a classic. Definitely like the Ergoforces, and they look to be in my price range as well to get started. What are some things I should be looking for? I may also bite the bullet on an ok to meh zenith z-150 if I can. I found out they sell new PCBs that fit that frame so maybe if I can get a good price on a neglected one I can restore it and either swap the switches to Pine Alps or get the green linears in good working order.
-
Green Maned Lion
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Unicomp New Model M
- Main mouse: X-keys L-Track
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
The best vintage keyboard without spending a fortune is to buy a NOS Model M from Clickykeyboards.com.
I think I bought his last Battleship, but that's the model I most recommend of the Model Ms. If you think proper Model Ms are mushy, you haven't experienced a real model M. They are clicky and positive. Cherrys are mushy.
If you don't mind dealing with flaky electornics, another would be a White Alps Focus. I have an FK-9000. Great keyboard, if you don't mind playing some histrionics to get it connected every time you use it. Vintage anything can be a bit flaky. I know; a lot of my life is vintage.
I think I bought his last Battleship, but that's the model I most recommend of the Model Ms. If you think proper Model Ms are mushy, you haven't experienced a real model M. They are clicky and positive. Cherrys are mushy.
If you don't mind dealing with flaky electornics, another would be a White Alps Focus. I have an FK-9000. Great keyboard, if you don't mind playing some histrionics to get it connected every time you use it. Vintage anything can be a bit flaky. I know; a lot of my life is vintage.
- jadontalis
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: POS Razer Ornata v3
- Main mouse: Razer Basilisk Hyperspeed
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Switches
Yes for sure, that's great to hear i'm wrong on that since the model Ms check most of my boxes for a first keyboard and seems like the people on here agree its a good intro to the space. I'll check out that site for sure. Noted on the Cherrys. The FK-9000 is a beautiful keyboard so one of those would be awesome too. I definitely feel ya on that. I'm in the middle of repairing an IBM Selectric II typewriter, as well as a couple 30+ year old cars that flake out on me regularly (The theory being at least one will probably run right?
).
-
Johnbo
- Location: United States - San Diego
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Yeah that's interesting, I've never heard of a Model M described as "mushy". To me they're one of the cleanest, most crisp feeling keyboards out there, basically the opposite of mushy. Have you tried on in person?
- jadontalis
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: POS Razer Ornata v3
- Main mouse: Razer Basilisk Hyperspeed
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Switches
I suppose mushy isn’t the right word for it, more muted maybe in sound? I was comparing them to model fs and to some extent beam springs, along with various keyboard/ switch reviews of that era. I haven’t interacted with older than a late 90’s rubber dome and 2010-present mechanicals. So take my uninformed opinions/ comments with a grain of salt there. I believe you more than I believe myself on this haha.
The only ones I can have a real opinion on are Cherry mx variants and I hate them all except for razer’s early greens and maybe blues with a some modding but that still doesn’t solve the root issue that they just lack certain feel and sound by design.
The only ones I can have a real opinion on are Cherry mx variants and I hate them all except for razer’s early greens and maybe blues with a some modding but that still doesn’t solve the root issue that they just lack certain feel and sound by design.
-
Johnbo
- Location: United States - San Diego
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Oh yeah, there's no doubt that Model Fs have an even cleaner feel than Ms, but I think Ms are still vastly superior to most MX stuff out there. If you have the budget for it, yeah for sure get an F. But with ~$100 I think you'd be better off with a basic Model M if you wanted to go buckling spring route. Otherwise you're looking at a Model F XT, and yeah... that's a rough layout in this day and age.
Of course there's nothing wrong with trying to find some Alps boards if that's the way you'd rather go. I got my Focus FK2000 with white alps for under $100, granted that was years ago, and the market's definitely different now. I haven't paid too much attention to alps stuff recently since the white alps weren't my favorite, I prefer buckling springs.
I feel this is also a good time to mention Zeal PC clickies switches. They're alps-inspired click leaf switches, and I love them. By far my favorite MX-style switch. In fact I daily-ed a keyboard with them along side my F122 on my work computer for a long time.
Of course there's nothing wrong with trying to find some Alps boards if that's the way you'd rather go. I got my Focus FK2000 with white alps for under $100, granted that was years ago, and the market's definitely different now. I haven't paid too much attention to alps stuff recently since the white alps weren't my favorite, I prefer buckling springs.
I feel this is also a good time to mention Zeal PC clickies switches. They're alps-inspired click leaf switches, and I love them. By far my favorite MX-style switch. In fact I daily-ed a keyboard with them along side my F122 on my work computer for a long time.
-
Green Maned Lion
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Unicomp New Model M
- Main mouse: X-keys L-Track
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
If you haven't actually spent time typing on a buckling spring IBM Model M (there are also some rubber dome units out there, and while I hear it is one of the better rubber domes, its still a rubber dome), you really should. Unicomp's keyboards are not to be sniffed at; they just reflect the fact that when new a Model M cost $7-800 in today's money... and the Unicomps are ~$200. The older the M, the better it is.
-
heinz
- Location: Estonia
- Main keyboard: IBM model M 1988
- Main mouse: Razer Diamondback 1
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
Model M-s can be mushy only when they are used and they dont have all the rivets anymore but then you have to bolt mod them.
if you are between the model M and F because of sound then Model M sounds more clacky and F more pingy. You can sometimes hear the ping when using the model Ms too. I prefer the clacky.
if you are between the model M and F because of sound then Model M sounds more clacky and F more pingy. You can sometimes hear the ping when using the model Ms too. I prefer the clacky.